Rebuild of an old friend

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Re: Rebuild of an old friend

Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 10:59 am

No street use at all, too much body roll with the inboard springs. The width is not appreciated around here on street anyway. I figured getting the drive shaft out of the rocks would be best for this particular instance. Actually at the time of that pic the perches were not welded either. So slow moving and real sticky synthetic gear oil by LE will keep it all lubed.
MC vss prob would have fixed it was way before he had them when this thing last wheeled.

*** straight on the Boggers, they are still good! lots of tread left.
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:00 am

Better parts than before!!! Check out the $5 shackles I bought and wheeled for 4+ years
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Some Sweet trail repair

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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:01 am

I am going to use our Orbit eye shackle hangers in the rear so I can get the most of our rear springs. Plus it helps keep the main leaf from twisting.



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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:01 am

I know I am going to have to have the steering box as far forward as possible since the distance from my shackle tube center to my front hanger eye center is 45''.
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After clamping it where I want the box I made my own steering box reinforcement inner bracket. I had already plated the outside of the frame so it should be good.
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And some extras for future patterns.

Then I welded one of our front bumper brackets that we make for the first Gen trucks. This will allow a TG winch plate to bolt on.
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Re: Rebuild of an old friend

Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:02 am

Lengthened the steering shaft.
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Love the 79-80 steering shaft, no rag joint.

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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:03 am

Since first Gen trucks dont have a cup holder, I decided to add one.:D
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test flexing.

Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:03 am

Got some test flexing. Looks like bump stops and either more of a back space rim or move the rear lower shock mounts. Even so I am more than happy for out of the box flex.
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:04 am

With a W56 and duals in a first gen Cab some floor mods were necessary for the shifter,
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I did however get one of our 3 row all metal radiators for 1st gen installed. :smokin:
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I got enough wiring done to get it started but I still have the gauge cluster and to lengthen the air flow meter wires.
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:05 am

I decided to try a Trail-Gear 8000 winch. Good looking and feels like a solid product. It fit perfect too.
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:05 am

Here is the 79 gauge cluster with tach. The tach is real small and in the center of the gauges. The plugs on the back are a small round plugs.
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The 82-83 with tach, the tach is much bigger and the pugs are similar to the 87 which the harness is from
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Here is the back of the 87
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On to cutting some wires. :homer:
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:06 am

Almost there!
I had to get some switches mounted and didnt have to to search or order a panel with the right sized square holes for the rocker switches. I have tried to cut these holes out of steel and it sucks to make them look right and even.
I found a center console form a second gen runner (a have a bunch of these consoles) I know from experience that the switches fit pretty nice in the stock square holes (with a little trimming). So bright idea popped in my head.
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I think I will look into having a panel made out of aluminum that is universal so people can cut down to fit most any hole. Aluminum is easy to work with and looks cool too.
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Re: Rebuild of an old friend

Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:07 am

Well, in my spare time :laughing: I have been trying to mount 14'' shocks in a cramped area. I have always followed suit in how shocks were mounted. Like our rear shock re locate. Narrow at the top and wide at the bottom on the axle. This allows a longer shock in a small area. Well, I disagree now. Shocks play an important part in body stability and suspension. We inboard springs to get the same amount of articulation and less spring movement (work). Shocks should work the same way. Wide at the top and closer on the axle makes for more room for a longer shock, more body support and for the same articulation less shock movement. If I am missing something PLEASE let me know.
Here is typical mounted narrow at the top and as far out as possible on the axle. Fully compressed. Shock is bottomed out, tire is hitting shock. :(
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Re: Rebuild of an old friend

Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:07 am

Moving the lower mount in as far as I can.


Fully compressed. I gained a couple inches of upward travel before the shock bottoms out. Tire clears by a bunch. I'm running it and will report back!:D
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:08 am

Finally got our bed sliders installed. These should be on the site shortly.
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Postby Dave » Wed Jul 04, 2012 11:08 am

With the shock straight up and down I only get 14'' of travel and my suspension moves more than that. Hence the reason everyone mounts them at an angle to gain travel. Its just my thinking you gain more by going the other way than the traditional way of tricking a shocks travel. I really think this will work best. I have more room, the body seems more stable (rocking it back and forth):shaking:. Might be totally different on the road. I will be re mounting the shocks on my DD to see if this works for street use as well.
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